Slops made in early 2006. Doublet started and finished November to December 2007
This account of the making, entered April 22 2008
Margo Anderson Elizabethan Gentlemen's pattern.
Paned slops View A and Doublet view B
Inexpensive black cotton flannel for the underlay on the slops and waist band and cuffs. Black Bottom weight cotton for the contrast and tabs on the Doublet.
Heavy weight green cotton with raised embroidered checked pattern.
David had the Green fabric for some years before he handed it over to me for a doublet or slops.
Buttons were fantastic metal with a shank and Acorn motif found years ago on Pillaged Village catalog online site. They were expensive but I had to have them for David. Our Oak Leaf Revelers leader. I ordered antique silver in both the small and the large. Small for the second pair of sleeves and the large for the Doublet front and Slops closure on the front.
I was very nervous to begin this as it was only the second time sewing for him and I had very little self confidence. Also, it was his green fabric and I didn't want to mess it up. He assured me plenty of times that the fabric cost very little money and he was happy for me to use it.
I just wanted to be extra sure he would like what I made and be proud to wear it. It took a lot of courage for me to make this and I worked very hard on getting it just right. It looks fabulous on him and people compliment it when ever he has worn it.
The slops made me nervous because of the panes. Until I layed all the pieces together out on the floor, none of it made sense. Pants are difficult for me unless I pin little labels on each front piece and back piece and on the top right side. I can't even begin to tell you how many times I have mixed them up and sewed other pants together backwards and upside down until this simple trick helped set it straight.
Flat cod piece and hidden fly are the hybrid closure of choice. Easy to do.
The waist band gave me trouble and I had to redo it with an extra two inches. I have David's measurements and refer to them constantly while sewing. Somehow I had made the waist too small.
The cuffs were the hardest. I just kept goofing the stupid things up! Please! I knew how to do them but that was just so so frustrating. I'm still not 100% happy with them but the next paned slops I made for him were much easier. My machine broke a lot of needles and quit working on the cuff to pane connection. The bulk of it all was nearly more than it could take. Same with the Doublet. It is a cheap machine and I use multiple layers of fabric plus piping on all edges.
Sorry for the crummy fuzy photo of the sleeve panes. Stupid camera!
They are fully reversible and with the cuff rolled back, a nice contrast. I took the pattern in but they are still a little large on David. The second set of sleeves are full and tie on at the shoulder and button on the length.
Looped Tabs on Doublets are something David particulaily likes. Hard to do with piping. The effort comes from hours of mindless sewing the long pieces, turning the tubes, pressing them flat, cutting them up and then pulling the cotton thread out of each end on each seam with my bumbly fingers and cold hands. Takes forever! Satisfying after finishing.
The Looped Tabs under the shoulder wings look good. Mumsy touch of black piping of course.
The collar is pinned to the front pieces and photo shop spots and lines gave David an idea of button and piping placement. I was able to get the confidence I needed to keep going by e-mailing back and forth.
Above photo before waist tabs and lining.
At this point, the black contrast side pieces are on and it is looking good. This was David's idea. The Elizabethan's liked to look wedge shaped. Broad shouldered and wasp waisted. A becoming look for a man. Two toned Doublets are questionable as far as historical information is concerned but it looks really good on him and many people at Renn faires do it two toned in one way or another. As research is brought to light, my costumes will eventually reflect it too.
Once the waist tabs are on I start to breath a sigh of relief. That is so hard to do on my machine and they never go on perfect. One always seems to be off and that drives me nuts. At some point I just give up and they have to do as is.
It turned out well. Done in this photo except for button loops of which Ella does by hand. Also, needs the light weight green linen lining sewn down on inside waist. I think this is a beautiful Doublet. David was happy when he saw it for the first time. It fit him perfectly. Even the multiple rows of checks line up at attention! It is a great example how 'less' can be 'more'.
An Elizabethan outfit doesn't need to be glitzy or gaudy to look good. The wealth is in those buttons. Back then as now.
First outing for Green and Black suit of apparel a December 2007 gig we did in Seattle. Above two photos taken by me.Ella in the Red Silk gown. They looked smokin! When he entered the event, the hostess complimented his outfit! Yeah!
David as a pikeman at the 'Actions in the Lowe Country' California, April 2008 Photo taken by Ella
He assured me it was comfortable to wear. Nothing has helped my confidence in sewing so much as finishing this suit has. Very satisfying effort.
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