Monday, April 21, 2008

MUMSY'S GREEN AND GOLD WOOL OVER LINEN

I started losing weight in November of 2007 and to date have lost nearly 33 pounds. This is not only great news for my health but energy and happiness as well. The down side if there really is a down side. My costumes are getting loose and though they can be taken in on the side seams in most cases, I want a new outfit. There is a pile of wool and linen not being used in the fabric stash that is pretty and of pleasing colors that will work nicely for a kirtle and over gown.












Inspiration painting, 'Wedding at ber Mondsey'
by Hoefinagle. 1570 and one of the few and very best depictions of Middle and lower classes of English regular folk wearing their normal clothes.















Pattern I ordered for the Kirtle and Over gown, from http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/
















Fabric, Hunter Green suit weight wool, Gold wool flannel, pale yellow light weight linen, pale green light weight linen, medium green heavy canvas weight cotton for interfacing and flat lining. Electrical cable ties 36 inch size. Silimide thread. Lacing rings and cord.











Gold wool flannel cut into three inch wide strips for skirt guards for the Hunter Green over gown. The kirtle will be the light yellow linen.
Light weight pale green linen will be the lining for bodice of both gowns.












April 22, 2008
Today I wanted to get something accomplished but my hands just refuse to stay warm so it has been miserable. Pushed through the discomfort and got boning channels put on the kirtle bodice. Cut and numbered all the electrical cable ties to fit.
























Tried on the pinned bodice flat lining with stays in and I don't like it. This is first try with a new pattern from a new company and fitting onto 'Cassluv' for the first time. It will take an adjustment on my part. I cut a lot off the shoulder straps and back edges also under arm. Adjusted the pins and readjusted the pins on the side seams. The flat lining with the boning channels is cheap cotton canvas. I'm using it as my mockup. If it works out I'll use it. If not no great loss and I'll make another.















The pattern doesn't call for boning except on the closing back edges. I like building a corset into my bodice's however and if one or two are digging or uncomfortable during the wearing, I take them out in back of the tent or in the restroom. Whatever works best. There are no rules when it comes to my comfort.















First thing I noticed about this pattern are the underarm seams. I expected a more historically accurate placement of further back. The underarm placement seems kind of modern to me. The designer of the pattern Kass McCann claims in the information package it comes with, that there are no extant kirtles in existence and this is the best representation of one. She is a historian and been doing this a real long time so I trust this will look authentic when I'm finished.
After what I have been making and wearing in public, this has got to be a big improvement. No one is more critical of my costumes than me!
The most annoying thing so far is having to make so many adjustments before even hardly getting started. *Bah* Just fussing on my part.
The bias tape is just pinned on the back closing edges to give an idea of where the eyelet lacing will be placed.















Attached flat lining with channels and bones to pale yellow linen outer fabric and handling it as one fabric, pinned it to the pale green linen lining right sides together. Next step is sew them together all around the edges except bottom edge and very tops of shoulder straps. After trimming and clipping all the seams will turn right sides out and press the whole thing carefully with the plastic bones removed.











After dinner got my hands warmed up and back at it. Sewed, turned, then pressed the bodice.






















Pale yellow linen is the right side, pale green linen the inside. The boning channels are visible through the fabric on the inside only. Next step is sew the waist edge over the open end of the boning channels. After I have applied a bias binding its time to move on to the skirt. Not going to attach the shoulder straps until the skirt with lining is attached at the waist edge. Haven't made up my mind on gathers, knife pleats, or cartridge pleats. Thinking just gathers. This is going to be the simplest of kirtles and humble in construction. The built in support is for a smooth look beneath the over gown.











April 23, 2008
Pressing the skirt and lining rectangles last night before retiring was a good idea. Got right at the skirt first thing this morning sewing lining to skirt panels right sides together on all the selvage edges and waist top, turning out and pressing all seams. I wasn't going to line this kirtle because I wanted to make a white linen smock for my undies. The yellow linen is very sheer so I used the white linen instead to line the skirt. Its now a nice fully lined one piece skirt with all seams hidden. I left a back seam open about 6 inches where the bodice will open at the back. I'll just add a couple white coat size hook and eyes to close the skirt opening.











After lunch my hands were pretty warm after washing dishes in hot water so I went to the hand gathering. Only took a half hour and now the fun part. *sarcasm* here. The attaching of skirt to bodice is never easy for me no matter which method. Usually takes me more than one try. What is nice is the feel of the two linens together. I prewashed and dried both the yellow and white, three times before using. Nice and soft.















Around 4pm decided to work on it some more. Almost done. The yellow linen is so sheer the underlining of medium green shows through. That's ok because I was going to make it this way to begin with. My character is so poor she might have used and reused fabric from one gown to the next. Her clothes would have been a miss match. I'm seriously thinking of distressing this kirtle further to get it grubby looking. Mumsyish is a good term.































Took a while to attach the bodice to skirt. I used two stitches per gathered pleat. Sort of turned out like a flat cartridge pleat job. Not too great looking but ok. I tried it on and it fits. Not sure where to attach the shoulder straps to the front of the bodice. I'm going to rip the stitches and insert the strap within the layers. It will give a smooth look over all and no visible machine stitching anywhere so far.















I put a placket closing flap on the skirt back opening.















Photo shows my nifty reusable grommet strips. Got the idea from one of Margo Anderson's sewing blog sites. I can pin or baste them where lacing may be placed and try things on before putting eyelets or grommets in permanently.
I use a pencil through the hole to mark where I eventually want them on the garment.
Some how miscalculated the length of the skirt and will have to cut a lot off. That would normally bother me but I'm going to use the scrap strips as a rag belt for my apron. How this keeps happening is frustrating. At exactly 5 feet it's not like I'm still growing! Maybe I get generous while cutting because of all the times the opposite happened. Skirts that were too short. *Poo* Ah well...nothing will go to waste.















Well......here it is. I couldn't wait after working so hard the last couple days. So, basted some grommet strips on the back, had SaFaye' lace me up and out into the back yard we went! 9pm yikes!
Its dragging in the grass and its dark out but with the little linen coif and my white shirt, very Mumsy like.
Tomorrow eyelets and hem it up. Then on to the over gown! This is so comfortable and dreamy feeling. The inner linen lining gives it some *umph*.
No real problems with it. Liking this a lot. Humble and plain.











April 24, 2008
Started on the Over gown this morning. It will go much the same as the kirtle so I won't fill up this blog with duplicate photo's and details. That would bore even me! First effort is fitting the pattern over the finished kirtle and already a problem. The kirtle shows about 2 inches of back shoulder strap. Had to recut two of fabric and two of flatlining. No more light green linen for the lining so I'll subsitute something else. It will never show.











The Overgown will lace in the front and will have about a 4 to 6 inch gap. The back pieces are seamed down the back instead of cut out on a fold as one piece. The Elizabethan's didn't care about where seams lay. Whether in the front on the skirt or anywhere else for that matter. Asthetics in clotheing have changed in many ways over the course of a few hundred years. If they didn't care, neither do I in the recreating.
Working steadily now and wish for my camera. SaFaye' needed it at school so *rats*....I can't document what's going on. 'Cassluv' is a dream to work with. This is the first time I've made anything using her for fitting. As I lose weight, so does she. Without her this outfit would be a nightmare! Having the shirt and kirtle laced up on her, the fitting of the Overgown is taking shape over the top with pinning, trimming and then moving to the machine to sew. Then to the iron board and back to 'Cassluv'. Slow but steady and wonder of wonders! My hands have stayed warm today! Makes a huge difference on how much can get done before I need to rest. It is 11:30 and almost time for lunch. Time to break for a while.











12:30 ....A decent lunch and a fresh look at the Over gown bodice did me a world of difference. Had to rummage deep into the scrap bin to find enough suitable fabric to make the lining back. A little cream colored linen/cotton remnant will do. Pinned lining right sides to bodice and its ready to sew together. The sewing room floor is a disaster area. What a mess. Should really go through it and throw the junky stuff away. There is silk and wool mixed in with the cheap junk. Makes it hard to find suitable stuff when it is so disorganized like that. *eh* Maybe tomorrow :P































While ironing, a breaker went off. No power upstairs for two hours until SaFaye' came home and fixed it. Got my camera back too and heres the update.
Worked hard at pinning the lining to the bottom waist edge to elimate any wrinkles and puckers. Seems ok for now. Nested the shoulder straps inside each other and will sew them next by hand. I used a zig zag stitch on the bottom waist edge and that seemed to do the trick by giving a little ease.
The Over gown bodice extends down past the waist a little further than I was hoping. Not sure what to think about that. Guess I'll just attach the skirt and see what happens. Mumsy wears an apron in public like a common woman of her station would in period. No worries.
This skirt will take longer to make than the kirtle because of the gold wool flannel guards. I want this to be flawless as much as possible. Which means lots and lots of hand stitching on the outside to apply the guards without machine stitching showing.
Its after 5pm and time to make dinner.
Jack turned the tv on around 8pm for Survior. My guilty pleasure and a perfect opportunity to do hand sewing. It took about and hour and a half to apply the first gold wool flannel guard to the first skirt panel. I used black Silimide thread for its slippery and anti tangle abilities. The stitches show in a quaint primitive sort of way on the right side. I learned this hemming technique on a sewing blog site and it is awesome in it's simplicity. Attach the guard to the wrong side, flip it to the right side with the fold on the bottom as the no sew hem and the raw edged folded back under the top side of the guard. It could all be machined stitched which is how I did my 'Italian Blue linen with red wool guard hem'. This outfit is my mostly authentic English effort and so no visible machine stitching allowed.






















April 25 2008
Tossed and turned last night wondering what to use to line the Hunter Green wool skirt. This morning, raided the costume closet and found my oldest 'Mumsy wear', first drawstring underskirt. Cheap muslin, dyed mustard yellow. I wore it a lot last year and it has faded to a muddy yellow. Ripped the seams, tore off the muddy orange guard and Voila'! It will do! Already hemmed and seams finished. Disappointed there is no suitable colored linen in my stash but I can't afford to buy anything for this outfit. So far, all fabric and material were in my stash on hand. Only purchase was the pattern. No cheap object at $30!
Took a break at 10am for a snack and a sink of dishes in hot soapy water. The trick to keeping my hands warm.






























Finished the second guard in an hour, pinned, sewed, and ironed the muslin lining to the skirt. Worked out better than expected. Exactly two inch extra on each end, so that allowed a folded back sturdy self facing on each front skirt opening. The lining is also about 3 inches shorter than the skirt and already hemmed! Saved me a lot of time and the color is a gold/mustard color.
My favorite Mumsy colors.
SaFaye's home from school on an early release day and my camera back. She has it set on a no flash setting and it is hard to get clear pictures in the house. The color shows true however.
Its now 1:15 and I'm exhausted. My neck, shoulders, and left arm sore and stiff. Long day of hand sewing. The skirt is ready to attach to the bodice. Not bad for a days work. I need a long break. Don't want to mess up now. So close to being finished with two gowns in three days!






























Couldn't stop all day. Tried to, really I did! It just kept getting closer and closer.
The skirt treatment turned into cartridge pleats. Not what was planned but my fingers start to do it automatically and it does look spiffy. A quicky try on and it fits me! I love love love it! The waist does seem too long but oh well....
Time to step back and rest. My body is screaming at me right now. Its nearly 6pm and I haven't eaten anything since 2. A much needed rest is in order.
Very satisfying sewing day.

April 26 2008
Its Saturday, I stepped on the scale and HOLY MOLY! I lost three pounds in three days! Sewing is the new excersise!
That's the good news. The bad news...putting eyelets in my gowns. *Crap*
Heres the sorry story. I can't make hand bound eyelets. Tried and tried. Left hand and right hand won't cooperate on this. The Great Grommet Debate is for another blog. That leaves precious few choices. I tried the large eyes out of the Coat and Eye packages. They would work if sewn on the inside, but the fabric is thin and even with the added strength of the boned edge, the pull of the lacing distorts the bodice in all manner of bad ways. Can't managed to close a lot of hook and eye combinations by myself either. *Drat Blasted* bumbly hands!
The compromise to all this is machined button holes. Learned that other costumers do this trick in a pinch for time. I do it for lack of a better option thus far. More bad news. I'm not so good at this either. One or more always fall off the mark. Every time, puncture my left hand and bleed on the fabric before I notice while ripping the holes with my seam ripper. All bad but 'them's the breaks' for this Stroke Survior. I do the best I can and live with the imperfections. In my sewing, in my life and with this disability.






















All sorts of troubles putting the button holes in the kirtle. Poked my left hand again with the seam ripper while opening the eyelets and bled a droplet on the fabric before I noticed. SaFaye' told me to dab Hydrogen Peroxide with a cotton swab on the stain quickly. Did just that and it came out. Good trick to know.















Went slow and steady and they turned out much better on the overgown with no blood spillage this time. Used Fray Check on both sides of each eyelet. It needs to be reapplied after each wearing. All that is left to do is hem the kirtle.





























































Sunny Saturday and I played in the whole thing outside in the garden for an hour and a 1/2. It wears like a dream! Comfortable. Everything stays in place.
I sat, ate lunch in it and twirled in the garden till dizzy and laughing.
Photos outside by SaFaye'

First outing the Gig Harbor Maritime Parade June 2008
Passing out candy to children. Lots of fun. Other than the sleeves blowing their stitches and lacing rings coming out it held up fine and was comfortable to wear walking, skipping, jogging, and causing mischief for 1.2 miles!

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